Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Bones: Lamb, Beef and Monk


It was raining when we left our hilltop fortress on Trujillo and headed for the city of Caceres to return out rental van. We had been there the previous day and I knew the streets were narrow and treacherous. The hotel provided us with a map of how to get to the rental car agency. The map was wrong and we could not find it.

Michael jumped out of the van to look for the address and soon he was lost to us. Cathy and Tamara jumped out of the van looking for Michael and soon I drove off in the rain not knowing where anyone was and not able to find the rental car agency. I circled the town about 6 times looking for the rental car agency but couldn’t find it. I figured all of the lost folks would find there way there. I wanted to hire a cab to lead me to the agency, but because it was raining no cabs were available. Eventually my phone rang and the voice said they would send a driver for me. The only location I knew to explain to them was the bull-fighting ring and we agreed to meet there. The driver showed up and guided me to the agency.

We all united there and transferred to a different van with a driver to take us to Lisbon.

It was like a magical transformation. Our guide, Miguel, regaled us with stories of the history and culture of Portugal. It is completely different from Spain. We learned about El Cid, the various Kings, Queens and Dictators and Dukes of Portugal and the Iberian Peninsula. It was a great education.

We then arrived at the medieval fortress city of Evora. We went to a real local, non-tourist restaurant for an amazing lunch of stews and soups. It was perfect (with the wine) for a rainy day lunch.

On to the strangest Church I have ever been in. Igreja de S. Francisco, is a gothic style church that would send chills down the spine of anyone who prays or visits it. The main cathedral has figures that are all suffering in the worst possible way. In the side chapel named the Capela Dos Ossos, there are the skulls, bones and bodies of countless thousands of dead monks covering every pillar, wall, etc. Above the entrance to the Capela in Portuguese is a sign that translates as: “WE BONES THAT ARE HERE, WE ARE WAITING FOR YOUR’S”. I get the point, but it is sort of morbid!

We drove on to Lisbon. It reminds us on first glance of San Francisco, if San Francisco wasn’t Victorian. We really feel at home here. We took the funicular train up to the top of the city where we walked by all kinds of Fado clubs, to dinner.

Tomorrow we explore the city, grateful that we are now in Lisbon.

2 comments:

  1. The tiled walls of Lisbon are beautiful..no? The trolley is very much like San Francisco, as are the hills. Food is really good and the wine!!

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  2. Wow. Hilarious day but it wouldn't have been funny if I were driving the van. Well done Cliffy. I'm glad you've had a magical switch in mood from Spain to Portugal (although the photos don't reflect it yet; I still see nothing but stone). I see that Cathy is having an opportunity to wear the jacket she bought in Fes. Strange weather we're both having. NY is unseasonably cool too. Hope Portugal continues to please. Looking forward to the next installment.

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